Fattoria di Caspri reviewed by vinoeterra.com
Caspri Farm is a total work of art. The estate itself dates back to the 17th century. Perfectly restored, it is nestled, in a broad sense, in the rolling hills of the Valdarno. In a narrower sense, it is surrounded by 10 hectares of vineyards, interspersed and complemented by olive groves (Caspri produces a sensationally good olive oil), cypresses, pines and vegetable gardens.
The people responsible for all this are essentially two people: One is Suzanne Syz, the owner, a jewelry designer and former fellow New York avant-garde artist close to Andy Warhol and Jean Michel Basquiat. The other is Bertrand Habsiger, an Alsatian and former sommelier who changed paths in the early 2000s and went from wine shop owner to winemaker.
Since 2005 the two have been working together. The result is a winery that is a pioneer in sustainability, biodiversity and biodynamics, producing wines that sometimes serve as a quality benchmark for other producers in the area. Winemaking is done without blinders on. Indigenous grape varieties such as Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo and Canaiolo take center stage with single-varietal interpretations as well as Pinot Noir and Syrah, which are also made entirely on their own or, as in the case of Syrah, flow into cuvées. Also notable is the amassed vinification of the two white grape varieties Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia.
As for vinification, the wines are always spontaneously fermented in 1200-1500-liter wooden fermenters and bottled without the use of chemicals (including SO2). The wines are aged in 500-600 liter wooden barrels. Some wines are coarsely filtered before bottling.
Wines – a selection
Rosso di Caspri: 100% Sangiovese, partly from young vines and partly from old vines. Structured, fresh, elegant and lively. With lots of drinkability, floral notes, red fruit. Juicy, powerful and lively. A beautiful entry.
Ciliegiolo: light and lively. A fruity, rustic, Mediterranean summer wine, a great table companion.
Poggio Cuccule: Sangiovese from a single vineyard. Rich and intense. Mediterranean. Herbaceous and floral notes. Juicy red fruit on the nose and palate. Always elegant and well-structured. The palate flows dynamically and quite velvety.
Blue Moon: Trebbiano and Malvasia. Stays long on the skins. Powerful, intense and complex. Shows what can be achieved from the two grape varieties if yields are reduced and equally rich raw material is available. It has structure, power and energy and smells and tastes of chamomile and ripe yellow fruits.
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